Air Sealing Materials

Materials

Applications

Pros and Cons

Caulks

Siliconized Acrylic Latex

  • seal cracks and holes up to 1/2 in. wide
  • seal sole plates to subfloor, rough openings to window frames, drywall to framing or masonry, and drywall to electrical boxes
  • high volume users consider a professional grade refillable caulking gun
  • adheres well to clean, dry surfaces of wood, metal, drywall and masonry
  • readily available
  • inexpensive
  • paintable
  • may not adhere in cold or damp conditions
  • clean up with soap and water

One-Part Polyurethane

  • same as above, plus seal concrete expansion joints
  • can be applied to joints up to 2 in. wide if done properly.
  • extremely good adhesion to almost all surfaces
  • applies in temperatures down to 0° F if caulk is kept at 60° F or above
  • applies to damp, but not saturated or ice-covered, surfaces
  • very elastic and flexible -- will stay in joints even with substantial movement
  • poor adhesion to glass
  • more expensive than siliconized acrylics
  • clean up with chemical solvents

Silicone

  • most silicones are "acetoxy" cure. They release acetic acid as they cure, which can weaken the surface of concrete and corrode galvanized metal. Acetoxy cure products have a characteristic vinegar smell. "Neutral" cure silicones are more expensive, but are also more flexible and work on concrete and metal substrates.
  • very elastic and flexible
  • good adhesion to glass
  • clean up with chemical solvents
  • most can't be painted

Adhesives

Construction Adhesive

  • seal subfloor sheathing to joists
  • seal tongue-and-groove edges of subflooring
  • on job site during floor construction
  • not flexible

Drywall Adhesive

  • seals drywall to plates and studs if applied in a continuous bead
  • already on the job site
  • adds little to drywaller time
  • method has not been blower door-tested
  • not flexible

Foams

High-Expansion Urethane

  • seal cracks or holes up to 3 inches wide
  • seal odd-shaped holes
  • seal rough openings to windows and doors, seal plumbing and electrical penetrations
  • large canisters with adjustable nozzles are convenient and allow adjustment of foam bead for 1/4 in. up
  • adheres well to any material except slick plastic, such as polyethylene
  • foam expands to fill hole shape
  • avoid getting foam on metal window frames
  • avoid overfilling around windows and doors -- may warp frames

Low-Expansion Urethane

  • same as high-expansion
  • low expansion allows better control
  • reduces potential to overfill cavities
  • eliminates stress on window and door frames
  • reduces cleanup from overfilling

Gaskets

Polyethylene Backer Rod

  • seal cracks from 1/4 in. to 2 in. wide
  • seal at rough openings to windows and doors, especially for wood or vinyl windows
  • use 1/4 in. diameter between drywall and framing
  • use in deep cracks (greater than 1/2 in.) to back caulk
  • can be applied in any temperature
  • can be applied to wet surfaces (staples on)
  • inexpensive
  • clean -- no gunk on tools or tapes
  • once fully compressed, may not recover -- avoid using where joint will move

Polyethylene Sill Sealer

  • use between mudsill and basement foundation wall
  • prevents water wicking up from concrete
  • avoid using under wall bottom plates

Foam, Neoprene,
EPDM and Other Building Gaskets

  • use between drywall and framing
  • use between nailing flanges of metal or vinyl windows and rough openings
  • use on attic and crawl space hatches
  • use between all major framing members
  • staples on -- can apply in any weather or on wet surfaces
  • rolls easily
  • requires care to apply drywall
  • highly elastic -- recovers well when compressed
  • clean

Sheets

Rubber or Neoprene Sheet Membranes

  • seals plumbing stacks and pipes to wall plates adjacent to unheated spaces (attics, crawlspaces, etc.)
  • allows pipes to expand and contract without breaking seals

Housewrap

  • can be used for sealing complicated leakage sites, such as stairs on outside walls, soffits and dropped ceilings
  • fully-wrapped walls can connect to the air barrier on inside ceilings and floors
  • durable
  • vapor permeable, so it can be used on the outside surface of walls

Polyethylene Sheets

  • can be used for sealing complicated leakage sites, such as stairs and tub enclosures on outside walls
  • not vapor permeable, so it must be used on the warm side of the exterior barrier

© 1993 Iris Communications, Inc.

 
  All Oikos pages copyright 1996 - 2008, Iris Communications, Inc.
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